Here at Leader Online, we have years of experience fitting flooring, and over the years, we have been asked lots of how to measure questions. Here are some of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to measuring for flooring.
How do you measure a room for flooring?
It depends on the shape of the room you are fitting your flooring in, but here is a quick breakdown of how to measure certain rooms.
How to measure rectangular rooms
Measure the length of the room.
Measure the width of the room.
Multiply the two numbers.
Add an extra 5% for wastage.
How to measure L-shaped rooms
Split the room into two rectangular sections.
Measure the length of one section.
Measure the width of the other section.
Work out the area of both sections.
Add the numbers together.
Add an extra 5% for wastage.
Good news - you have the easiest job! All you need to do is measure the length of the room, then the width, and multiply them together!
For Example:
Your room is 4 metres long and 8 metres wide.
4 x 8 = 32
So the area of flooring you’ll need is 32 square metres!
This is a little trickier, but it should still be no problem to calculate. All you need to do is split the room into two rectangular sections. Find the area of each of the rectangles, then add them together to get the full area.
For Example:
One part of your room is 4 metres long and 8 metres wide, and the other part is 5 metres by 5 metres.
4 x 8 = 32
5 x 5 = 25
32 + 25 = 57
So the area of flooring you’ll need is 57 square metres!
If you’ve got a room with lots of different corners and areas, we sympathise. This is going to be a bit more of a faff, but it’s not impossible at all! You just need to break the room up into smaller rectangles and squares, work out all the individual areas and add them all together.
For Example:
The main part of your room is 3 metres long and 6 metres wide, it has an L shaped join that is 2 metres long and 3 metres wide, it also has an annex that is 1 metre long and 2 metres wide, and another extension that is 4 metres long and 3 metres wide.
3 x 6 = 18
2 x 3 = 6
1 x 2 = 2
4 x 3 = 12
18 + 6 + 2 + 12 = 38
So the area of flooring you’ll need is 38 square metres!
Once you have your measurements, it’s usually a good idea to add an extra 5% to the area. This means that you’ll have spare flooring just in case any wastage occurs while it’s being installed. All you need to do is multiply the total area by 1.05.
If you don’t fancy calculating it all yourself, you can pop your measurements into our flooring calculator that appears on each flooring product page - we’ll even tell you how many packs you’ll need to buy!
Frequently Asked Questions
How many packs of flooring do I need?
On each of our product pages, you will find a calculator that will help you calculate the number of packs required to fill your room. All that you need to know is the area of the room that you want to fill.
How many square feet is a box of laminate?
Typically a box of laminate flooring will cover around 2.5-3 meters squared; however, if you would like to calculate the number of boxes that you will need to fill your room, we have a calculator that figures out how many you need on each product page.
How much do contractors charge to install laminate flooring?
You can expect to pay around £10 per square metre for laminate flooring fitting. Some fitters charge for installation per day at around £100-200 per day, depending on the level of expertise, size of the project and skill required for the flooring type. You can also expect to pay more for extras such as disposal of old materials and underfloor heating.
How much does a box of laminate flooring cost?
Here at Leader Online, we have a range of laminate flooring available at a variety of prices. Laminate flooring options within the range start at around £15 a pack and can range up to around £55 a pack for more premium options.
At Leader Online, we pride ourselves on offering our customers the highest-quality external wood doors. These doors are reliable, stable, long-lasting and highly resistant to damage, such as warping.
However, even the best external doors can look tired and worn if left unmaintained. Over time, harsh weather conditions can take their toll on wooden doors, causing many issues, including rot.
In this guide, we break down our top tips on how to treat your wood doors to keep them looking and performing at their very best. From the differences between certain external wood door types to how best to clean, prep and treat them, keeping your external doors in the best condition has never been easier, saving you the money and the hassle of replacing yours!
Different external door properties and treatment types
Whether treating your external door before its initial fitting or sprucing it up after months of harsh winter weather, it's important to treat it based on its material.
Softwoods like pine and redwood and hardwoods each have unique characteristics that affect how your door will respond to wear, the weather and moisture.
Here's an initial breakdown of how to treat each door type;
Oak is used for many external doors because it is durable, dense, and has a natural beauty. It is also resistant to moisture and decay. If maintained correctly, oak rarely warps or decays, making it a sound investment for your home’s external doors.
You can use a few different treatment methods with oak external doors: paint, oil, or stainer and a clear coat finish. Tannins in oak can sometimes react with some finishes and hardware, causing discolouration, so always make sure that whichever product you choose it's compatible with oak.
Maintaining and treating softwood doors (e.g. pine, redwood)
Whether you choose a softwood external door, such as a pine wood external door or a redwood garage door, it's important to note that although it can prove just as reliable, softwood is much more prone to scratches, dents and weathering. Also, softwood absorbs moisture easily, so you must prime and seal it before installing it to prevent it from rotting or warping.
When treating a softwood door, start with a high-quality primer, followed by a weather-resistant topcoat of either paint or varnish to seal your door. Following with a wood preservative can help protect your external door or gate against rot, fungi and insects.
If you want to enhance the natural grain of your new softwood door, you could opt for a stain with UV inhibitors and an exterior-grade clear finish to seal everything off.
Compared to hardwood and oak, softwood requires more frequent treatments to keep it looking and performing at its best.
Maintaining and treating hardwood doors
Chosen for their durability and resistance to the elements, although reliable, some specific hardwood doors have levels of natural oiliness, which can impact how finishes adhere.
Hardwood doors such as teak and mahogany need specialised oils to nourish and protect wood. For less oily hardwoods, a high-quality exterior varnish or wood stain will be enough to seal and protect your door.
Hardwoods are hardy and require less maintenance and retreatment than most softwood and oak doors. Preservatives aren't always necessary, as most hardwood has a natural resistance to rot. However, they may require some upkeep to prevent them from weathering.
Treating your external door or gate
Now you know the best solutions for treating your external door, it's time to start the process.
Here are the things you'll need:
Safety equipment (goggles, mask and gloves - protecting yourself should always be a priority).
Dust sheets
Masking tape (to prevent damage to any door glazing or hardware)
Sandpaper or sanding pads (150 to 250 grit recommended)
Varnish paint brush
External treatments - paint or oil, and depending on your preference, stains, sealants and finishes.
Microfibre cloth to remove dust
Prepping your external door for treatment
Your external door will arrive unfinished. If you need to store it for a while before hanging it, always choose a cool, dry room and keep it in its original packaging. To achieve the best results, protect your door from damp or erratic temperature fluctuations, which could cause it to warp. Always lie the door flat rather than upright.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions before treating your door to prevent your warranty from becoming void. With this in mind, these next steps to treat your oak external door should be used as a loose guide and not as a substitute for them.
Wipe down your door with a damp cloth to remove dirt and grime, and let it dry completely.
Gather the tools you need to treat your door, ensure you've applied all of your safety gear, and open all the windows where you're working to keep the space well-ventilated during and after work.
If any hardware or glass cannot be removed while you work, cover it with masking tape to prevent damage.
Take your sanding paper or sanding pad and buff over any uneven areas with a sanding pad. Our doors will arrive pre-sanded, but you may want to smoothen down any areas where you've made new cuts for hardware, such as handles and hinges. Then, wipe away any dust with a microfibre cloth.
How to treat your external wood door
Start by following the manufacturer's instructions for your chosen treatment. Here are some treatment options if you're unsure which to choose for your door;
If you want to retain your door's natural grain lines and features, treat it with oil, which helps emphasise its natural beauty. Oil treatments must be reapplied more frequently than paint, particularly after exposure to harsh elements. In this case, a primer and paint might be a better choice for your external door, or a stain and a clear varnish finish if you still want to see your door's natural effects.
A good sealant can prevent swelling in softwood doors, and wood preservatives can help fight off rot.
Always use specialist treatments to prevent your door from warping, swelling or absorbing moisture.
Stir the treatment and apply it to your door with a flat brush, following the direction of the grain and door fibres.
Check that all areas of the wood are treated, such as spaces inside the lock and letterbox cutouts, top and bottom edges and behind the hinges to prevent moisture from getting in.
Treat both sides of the door to ensure even coverage and to prevent moisture and rot from damaging the door once it's hung.
Allow the treatment to dry, particularly before applying a second coat. The first coat should be dry to the touch before applying further treatment. Always allow your door to dry in a well-ventilated area.
General treatment tips for all wooden external doors
Whichever door type you opt for, here are some final tips on how to get the most out of your doors when applying any treatment.
Don't forget to treat the edges of your door. Untreated areas encourage moisture to seep in, so treat all areas of the door to prevent it from being damaged further down the line.
Always use breathable finishes that allow your wooden door to expand and contract naturally to prevent it from warping.
Protect your external doors from excessive direct sunlight and rain exposure with a canopy or overhang where possible. For garage doors and gates where this may be more difficult, apply a varnish or finish with a UV protector to prevent your door from drying out and cracking in the sun.
Now you know how to care for your external doors, why not upgrade yours at Leader Online? Our high-quality external doors are available in various wood types, including oak, pine and hardwood designs, and come unfinished, ready to treat to suit your exterior decor preferences. Or, for all other external areas of your home, why not explore our external garage doors and gates?
